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Thread: 85 GLH Turbo build

  1. #151
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Finally getting back to working on the car. I have been gathering parts for the"annual" spring upgrade. I have had the TU exhaust manifold for a few months now.



    I've decided that since its so much work to change it out I will just go ahead and upgrade the turbo too. So now everything on the exhaust side will pretty much be replaced with bigger, better flowing parts. Of course getting
    a new turbo opened up a few possibilities too. I didn't want to go too big since this is my summer driver so I went with a TU T04E T3/T4 hybrid with a 46 trim compressor wheel and I will use my .63 turbine housing. That along with my custom swing valve should potentially flow more hp than I plan to make with this car. Here are a few pictures.


    First up is the new turbo. I laid it next to a TII turbo (maybe a super 60?) just for comparison.








    Work, although being very slow, has continued on the divorced wastegate setup. Seems like the longer I drag a project out the more times I change my mind about how to do it. Here is where I'm at now but of course we still have a few months till summer so its all subject to change lol.

    Both pipes are welded in completely even though some grinding still needs to take place.










    I angled the waste gate dump pipe that way on purpose so that as the waste gate opens up exhaust can escape without any restriction. Shinning a flashlight back up the pipe makes it easier to see the path of flow when the puck is fully open.




    This next part is still in the planning stages but I laid out somepipes and flex joints just to get an idea of how I plan on doing it. If there is any flow restriction with this setup its just going to have to stay there. A dump will be placed right below the two flex pipes for all out racing purposes. Of course I cannot weld these pieces into place until I get the turbo mounted so I can make sure everything will line up.









  2. #152
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Making your own vvt system is awesome kudo's. I wonder if this could be employed on my 4.6l sohc?
    2000 Mustang GT SOHC 4.6L : 665hp at the tirel
    11.00 @ 134 mph... A 17 year love affair...


    Wyotech Graduate 03/14 : High Performance 1 & 2...Engine Management Systems 1 & 2...Powertrain...
    Chassis/Suspension & Braking systems.. 3.7 GPA.

  3. #153
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    Sep 2013
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    Cowen WV
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    The same principle of moving the slack from one side to the other will work with a chain the same as a belt but it would be more complicated to do and of course it would have to have separate setups for each head.

    Still trying to get the down pipe parts ready for the switch over hopefully in late March or early April. Yesterday I started on the collector that goes at the bottom of the flex pipes. Tried to keep the flow as smooth as possible putting the 3 inch and 1.5 inch pipes back into just a 3 inch exhaust. Lots more welding and grinding still needed.








  4. #154
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Several welds and a lot more grinding and its starting to look like something. Needs welded at least one more time to fill in the gaps and a final grinding and it will be ready to go.














  5. #155
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Getting closer. I tacked the flex tubes on about where they will go. both have a nice nearly straight shot at the exhaust so turbulence and restriction in this area should be a thing of the past.






  6. #156
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Finally got it all tacked together very close to its final shape. I know it looks like a Jarvik heart for an elephant but I'm confident it will flow much better than a stock setup. With a cutout at the bottom of this I really don't see any measureable amount of restriction taking place after the turbo.















  7. #157
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    Aug 2007
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    Washington PA
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    523

    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    8 lbs of wire in it?

    Who cares!...looks great man....nice ingenuity and looks plenty strong. Maybe hit the wastegate flange face with a large belt sander to make sure no warpage from welding on it?
    -John


  8. #158
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Wow good stuff!!!
    09 Sonata (My DD)
    92 C1500 ( Winter Beater/ Hauler)


    07accord - "I want to be a nittany lion!"
    "I'm pretty sure I have no fam. in South Jersey.Real mullet fairing people don't have spray tans." Levilz


  9. #159
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Quote Originally Posted by somethingclever View Post
    8 lbs of wire in it?

    Who cares!...looks great man....nice ingenuity and looks plenty strong. Maybe hit the wastegate flange face with a large belt sander to make sure no warpage from welding on it?
    Yeah and I'm only half way done lol! I will definitely resurface it just before I bolt it on cause she is a little bit warped at this point.



    Quote Originally Posted by elhazzja View Post
    Wow good stuff!!!
    Thanks! If you think this is good just wait till I unleash my next project car for competition at the flds maybe as early as this year.

  10. #160
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    I bolted the turbine housing onto the turbo. If everything goes according to plan it should be installed before the middle of April.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  11. #161
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    It's been a while but I'm back at it for now. Started by removing the exhaust. I made it a one piece unit for easy removal.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    K-Frame will also need to be pulled to change the turbo from the bottom. We have an excellent alignment machine to realign the car after I get it all back together.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    With the frame out of the way there is plenty of room for the swap. Notice the 4th motor mount I added some time ago. Its holding up nicely. Cars with a manual trans and rod shifter would really benefit from this mod.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Now we have a nice shot at the turbo with all that stuff out of the way.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  12. #162
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    The exhaust manifold has been really hot as seen is these pictures. My relocated battery cable took a beating. The shielding even burnt off.





    I am going to install a much better heat shield this time around. Considering that manifold had to be red hot dozens of times the VHT 2200 degree flame proof paint held up really well.



    Test fitting of the new exhaust manifold.




    New turbocharger set in place to get the housings clocked right. This manifold moves it over nearly 4 inches to the drivers side. This will work out great for my setup as its nearly a straight shot into my intercooler now. Before I had to use a tight S pipe coming out of the turbo and going into the intercooler.


  13. #163
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Somehow along the line I forgot that my wastegate can would not work with the new turbo. So I whipped up a last minute solution for the bracket. I cut a clutch steel from an automatic transmission in half and welded both pieces together with a small offset.



    I used the original turbo compressor plate as a pattern so I could drill the bolt holes. The welding looks terrible but it will hold I'm sure.



    Welded on an old shock washer to the top, drilled it to match the wastegate actuator and added an extra brace for insurance. Lots of grinding and a little 2200 degree paint and we are back in business.










  14. #164
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Tried the newly fabricated downpipe to see how close my guess-timation was and it actually fits pretty well. The flex couplers have plenty of bend in them so I can push the end of it where it needs to be and still have more left for the motion of the engine under acceleration. This does not amount to much on my car with the extra motor mount.








  15. #165
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    While I had the k-frame out I decided to rebuild the rack and pinion. After sitting all night when the temperature was cooler the steering would be really stiff for the first 2 or 3 minutes after starting the car. There were no leaks to the outside and it was a 2.5 turn lock to lock 14 to 1 quick ratio rack. I have been looking for one that I could afford for nearly 2 years with no success. Back in the mid 80's we used to rebuild these since Chrysler had very few choices for reman units and new ones were outrageous. Starting in the early 90's remans became more plentiful and much cheaper so we never fooled with rebuilding them anymore. Service manuals eventually left rebuilding most of them out too. Several companies today rebuild these units but you have to send them yours and it usually runs about 125 to 200 plus shipping to get them done. Even though its been over 25 years since I rebuilt one I thought that I would give it a try and see if I could still do it as the kit only costs 18 dollars for the Saginaw unit which is what the fast ratio ones in an L body and most others were.


    First up is the rack itself.





    Removing the bellows to get to the inner tie rod ends revealed one of the shock dampers or stop bumpers as some call them had split and popped over the inner joint. These can be left off as far as I know but when cutting to the stops you get a little more noise and it adds about a quarter turn to the overall steering (an eighth turn on each side). This would probably let the tire hit the transmission a little harder as most of them rubbed anyway from the factory. You would just need to be careful and not be holding it in a full lock turn and burn the inside edge off the tire I guess.








    There is really not much to a rack and pinion. If you can rebuild an automatic transmission or an engine a rack would be child's play in comparison. Its surprising that there is very little information on the internet about how to do this yourself. I recommendthat if you are to tackle this make sure you have access to a service manual for the rack you are rebuilding. Disassembling the rack without marking things like where the valve assembly is sitting when the rack is straight ahead will cause all kinds of problems when you try to put it back together. Read the instructions a few times BEFORE you start taking things apart. Here are the major parts when disassembled.







    After being cleaned up.





    The kit I used. Part number 8067.





    First up is number 12, the valve assembly. It has one piece sealing rings like many transmissions do. Digging around in some old information I found a Chrysler bulletin that said if you have little or no assist or a stiff steering complaint when the car is first started up cold then these rings need replaced with the "green ones". As you can see mine had the original orange ones and the kit I bought fortunately had the green ones. I think this alone would have cured my problem.





    I stretched the new rings on with a small pick. Just be careful not to nick or cut the new rings.







    There are different ways to get the rings back into the proper size. One way I do it is to leave the lube on them that I used to make them slip on easier then run several bands of electrical tape around them VERY tightly. This keeps pressure on the rings and compresses them back into shape. Usually takes 30 minutes or more. The tape peels back off without pulling on the rings since the lube keeps it from sticking.






    Or you can do it like this and its faster. I take a plastic spray paint lid and cut the top out. Then cut all the way down one side. Now you can wrap that around your sealing rings and add a hose clamp or two and tighten them down tight. This compress the seals very quickly. Leave it for 5 minutes and when you remove it the seals will be the perfect size.





    Same thing goes for the ring on the rack assembly.








    Soon to be continued.........

  16. #166
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    With everything removed out of the housing, or tube assembly as its listed, it should be nice and smooth through the middle where the rack seal rides. Any major scratches in that area and you need to find another housing.





    Of course the same is true in the bore where the valve assembly goes. The area where the 4 sealing rings goes has to be very smooth. Also notice there are several machined groves in this bore that the seals must go by to get the valve into place. This is why its important to have the rings compressed in flush or even below the surface of the groves they ride in. Once together they will expand back out within a short period of time and seal everything up. If you leave them sticking out they will get cut or deformed and you are going to have all kinds of steering assist problems.





    Going back together its easiest to install the inner tube seal with the rack itself. Just wrap some type of heavy paper around the end of the rack that has the teeth on it and now you can slide the seal onto the rack without cutting it on the teeth. Drop the toothed end of the rack into the tube and slowly lower it till you feel the seal start into its shelf. Use a soft hammer and tap on the end of the rack till the seal is driven in about 3/8 of in inch. It will hit solid when its home. The seal goes in this direction.





    The pinion bushing goes in the bottom of the valve bore. There is a groove that it sits in.








    Right above the bushing is the lower valve seal. This seal, like several in the unit, have the lip made onto the face of the seal instead of inside its opening. This prevents you from driving it in with a normal seal installer. So I went through our freeze plug assortment and found some freeze plugs that would sit over the lip and still push on the rim of the seal. Worked perfectly.








    Next up are parts 23, 24 and 25. These hold the seal for the passenger side of the tube and rack. They of course go in after you put the rack in. A locking ring and snap ring go in last to hold everything in the passenger side. Considering you can have a couple thousand pounds pushing against these parts they need to be in right.





    mini project rack rebuild soon to be concluded.

  17. #167
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    Aug 2005
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    Clarksburg, Wv
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Love your DIY style!!
    09 Sonata (My DD)
    92 C1500 ( Winter Beater/ Hauler)


    07accord - "I want to be a nittany lion!"
    "I'm pretty sure I have no fam. in South Jersey.Real mullet fairing people don't have spray tans." Levilz


  18. #168
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Thanks! Never having enough money necessitates the "DIY style", plus I find it more enjoyable too.


    And now the conclusion

    Once the rack is in and the seal, bulkhead and bushing are installed you should be down to putting in the snap ring.





    At this point you can test your work. Remove the two steel oil lines if you have not already and apply as much air pressure as you can to each fitting. You should have no leaks if everything went together good. 200 psi will not hurt anything as this part of the rack sees 2000 psi in normal use. If its sealed up continue on.


    Install the lower pinion bearing and its snap ring.




    The factory service manual makes a big deal about installing the snap ring with the bigger lug counterclockwise from the smaller one. I guess this is to make sure you don't put it in upside down as snap rings have a sharp side and a rounded side. However the one that came with the kit had the same size lugs on both ends.









    Center the rack the best you can in the housing tube. Now drop the pinion/valve assembly into the housing. Here is the tricky part. The pinion is helical cut so it turns as you drop it in just like a distributer does when you install it in a lot of engines. It took me a couple of tries to get it in so that it lined up with the marks I made BEFORE I tore the unit down. When its in properly you should have the same amount of turns side to side from the center. It should be about 1.25 turns left or right. This will prevent your steering wheel from being upside down or off to one side. Here are the marks I made with a file laying against the flat side of the splined pinion shaft BEFORE I took it apart. If you take it apart without doing this first you will have to guess or maybe use my picture to get It close on reassembly.




    Install stub shaft bearing, seal, dust seal and retaining ring. While holding stub shaft in position, torque locknut to 26 ft. lbs











    I locktited my bottom pinion nut with 271 red locktite just in case.





    Install rack bearing, spring and adjuster plug. Turn adjuster plug clockwise until it bottoms, then back plug off 40 to 60 degrees(about an eighth of a turn). Install locknut and torque to 50 ft. lbs. while holding adjuster plug in position.








    Here is something to think about. The pinion and rack and lower pinion bearing have no lubrication. They are sealed from the power steering fluid in the other parts of the rack. This could be a problem with 30 year old racks. Probably would not hurt to pull the drivers side boot off the rack and add some grease on the teeth and into the end of the rack to help prevent these parts from wearing out in the next 30 years lol.

    Finally the most important part of the build. Clean up everything and give it a good coat of paint!




  19. #169
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Welded up all the connections on the down pipe and thought I would check it for leaks with our smoke machine at the shop. Seems I might need to go over it again lol.





  20. #170
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    nice work...keep the pics coming....
    -John


  21. #171
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Thanks! I will do my best.


    Finally got the down pipe finished. I'm hoping I can get the Omni back on the road before the end of June just a little behind schedule as always.







  22. #172
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    Fairmont
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Nice, always a feeling of satisfaction and fulfillment procuring your own speed or replacement parts.
    Adam K
    '65 Corvair Corsa new DD
    '66 Buick Riviera GS
    '66 Corvair Corsa Corv8
    '84 Buick Regal 3.8 Turbo
    '06 Avalanche Z71 4X4

  23. #173
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    I agree!

    I checked every place I could to buy a set of new dampers for my rebuilt rack. I could not find any. In my research I found that many Saginaw racks use the same bumpers as did Dodge. GM used them in Saturns, Grand Ams and Cavaliers just to name a few. We were junking a Cavalier at the shop so I pulled the boots off it and found a perfect set to use.







  24. #174
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Went ahead and installed the bumpers and inner tierod ends. Its important to note that you can damage the rack by pounding the locks down on the inner rod ends if you don't support the rack from the other side. I used a small adapter to hold the underside of the inner tierod end while I staked the joint. I also used some red Loctite just in case.















  25. #175
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    Sep 2013
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    Default Re: 85 GLH Turbo build

    Ok the filler episodes about rack rebuilding have come to an end. Now back to the most important thing in any project build - making horsepower!

    Having an intake manifold directly above a red hot turbo exhaust housing is not the best idea but its what we have to live with running these original turbo four Dodges.





    I decided to make a heat shield to at least deflect some of the heat from the turbo away from the intake.





    The T4 compressor takes up a lot more room than the original turbo did. Since the new exhaust manifold moves the turbo to the left the original drain back tube will not work so the manifold comes with a pre-bent s pipe, hose and a flange. You can cut the pipe to fit your installation and weld the flange on when you are done.







    I read somewhere that the brace was not absolutely necessary as the manifold was much stronger than the factory one but it could be used if you wanted to by moving it to the left hole in the transmission bell housing support bracket. That's what I did but it took a little grinding to clear the drain back tube and a spacer on the bottom to make if fit correctly.







    To get an idea of where the turbo ends up you can see the inlet now sits just to the left of where the throttle cable comes through the firewall.






    The homemade down pipe bolted up fairly good. You can also see that there is about three quarters of an inch between the compressor housing and the firewall.






    With this manifold there is plenty of clearance for a large radius down pipe. Mine could have been even bigger.



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